Unique Uganda

Situated on the Equator in East Africa, Uganda is the Pearl of Africa. 

For wildlife adventure and cultural immersion, Uganda is a stellar choice. During my 20-day visit, I encountered the Big Five: lion, elephant, buffalo, rhino and elusive leopard. Uganda is poised for a tourism explosion with 3,300 square miles devoted to its 10 national parks (and six more recently announced).

Currently, the country is best known as a destination to trek to see mountain gorillas. Uganda is home to more than 50% of the world’s population of silverbacks and their families.

So, let’s go trekking!

The Impenetrable Forest

My gorilla experience began in Bwindi, the gateway to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Before I got on my way, I was treated to a community show and outfitted with leg gaiters, a walking stick and a face mask to protect the gorillas from my germs. Tip: Bring your own collapsible poles. The stick is heavy.

The guides paired me with six other trekkers for an early morning start. Tip: Tell the guides about your walking pace preference so they can organize you with people of similar speed. My group was well matched, down to our mutual anxiety that we wouldn’t find gorillas. We all bought a one-day pass ($800), and this was our only shot.

Not to worry. Professional trackers set out early to trace the gorillas’ movements from the previous day. When I arrived at the Buhoma Visitor Center, the guides had a fair idea of the locations.

My group walked ever so quietly through the richly biodiverse forest with our guide and two armed guards. Then … suddenly … we came upon a family headed by a watchful silverback, four children and two females, grooming, eating and dozing, but ever aware of our presence.

We were told the gorillas would not disturb us unless we seemed dangerous to them. If there is any danger, the guards shoot in the air and the family disappears. We spent two hours absorbing the family’s every movement, taking photos and inescapably anthropomorphizing. Did that one look me in the eye? Did the silverback pose for my camera?

If you want an even more immersive experience, consider a two-day habituation pass ($1,500). You’ll trek in a part of the forest where gorillas have recently been introduced. You can stay four hours observing them as they observe you. You might even get a poke in the chest from a curious primate. 

Don’t Miss the Chimpanzees

Chimpanzees are the fun uncle of the primate family. I trekked to see them at Kibale National Park. As with gorilla trekking, a guard and a guide accompanied me. But this time, even the trackers couldn’t pinpoint where or whether we would see a family. Chimpanzees are swift, clever and spritely tree climbers, playing hide-and-seek with us.

Unless we were incredibly quiet, the chimps would scamper off, leaving us to trek after them through the dense, pathless forest.

Throughout my treks, I was suspended in a surreal world of raw nature, face to face with creatures for which I felt human kinship. It was with pride that I accepted my certificate of trek completion. Our group members applauded each other and felt a special connection from sharing this seminal experience in the wild.

Come On and Safari with Me

While Uganda is best known for primate trekking, its Big Five safaris in the bush, savanna and on water are equally rewarding. In both Queen Elizabeth National Park and Murchison Falls National Park, open Jeeps are the vehicle of choice. As we shared our “Lion King” moment, I could stand up for a better look at the hippos, zebras, giraffes, warthogs (the guides call them Pumba), hyenas and kudus.

For me, animal spotting was best in the early morning when I could catch the glorious sunrise. But leopards and other elusive animals are more likely to be seen at sunset, when they emerge from their afternoon sleep.

My favorite adventure was in Queen Elizabeth National Park in the dead of night. A pod of hippos swimming in the muddy black water looked and acted quite different from how they behaved during the day. Older elephants and the ubiquitous kudu antelope separated themselves from the herd in the evening and got closer to the road for better viewing.

Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary-A Walking Safari

Uganda’s white rhinos are the second-biggest mammal on Earth and were near extinction until now. They are massive animals, and I was nose to horn with them on my Ziwa walking safari. Truth be told, I was a bit scared.

I asked my guide what would happen if they got upset. “Don’t worry, rhinos can’t see very well. If they get feisty, hide behind the tree,” was his unflappable answer. The guides know every rhino by name and can sense their moods.

Visiting the Batwa Tribe

For 800 years, the Batwa were hunters in the Impenetrable Forest. In the 1990s, the government displaced the 1,200-member tribe to protect the gorilla population, as the Batwa’s hunting snares occasionally caught a primate.

Today, the Batwa have carved out a tourist niche that should not be missed. I met the community in Bwindi, where they demonstrated their style of hunting, cooking and playing unique instruments. I was privileged to interview the tribal leader through an interpreter. I asked what he hoped for the future of his people. His answer was, “I want the children to be literate and educated. And I want our skills to be taught and remembered.”

To accomplish this mission, visitors are asked to repeat “Batwa, Batwa, Batwa” when taking photos with tribe members. “The camera will catch our lips,” he said, “and we will remember we are the Batwa who ruled the forest.”

The Source of the Nile and Other Surprises 

Uganda offers endless surprises. The Nile River begins in Uganda, originating from a mysterious fountain spouting from under the riverbed. On a boating excursion from Jinja, the adrenaline capital of East Africa, I arrived at the tiny wooden platform that marks the source of the Nile. A rare hailstorm stranded us for hours. The boat’s canvas awning barely shielded us from the hailstones. The Nile waters roiled.

What a contrast it was to visit Lake Bunyonyi, one of Africa’s most beautiful and placid lakes. Accommodation includes a private island stocked with zebras and giraffes and an array of five-star hotels with meals included at bargain prices ($220 a day).

As I sailed around the islands that dot the lake, I was fascinated by the story of diminutive Punishment Island. Girls who became pregnant out of wedlock were abandoned here. One of these women is still living and will tell you the tale.

Unique Uganda Offers More Than I Ever Expected.

From the chic clothing sewn by the women’s NGO R4W Co-op, to the baby elephants that seem to dance for you on safari, to the longhorn cattle that graze along the village roads, Uganda offers much more than trekking. In 2027, Uganda will co-host the Africa Cup of Nations. Hopefully, it will attract greater tourism and shine a light on this Pearl of Africa.