DÜSSELDORF TRAVEL GUIDE: What to See, Eat, and Experience in Germany’s Biggest Small Town 

In the last 30 years, Düsseldorf has transformed itself into a city worth every minute, yet it remains under the radar for many. It’s a large city disguised as a small town — walkable, friendly, historic and charming, with a great riverfront and greenbelts begging for picnics, not to mention food and beer specialties. Locals call it the “10-minute city” because lore says you can get to most places in 10 minutes. What city of 650,000 can say that?

Missing Düsseldorf on any tour along Germany’s romantic Rhine River would be a shame. Everybody goes to Cologne to gawk at the fantastic — if somewhat overtouristed — Gothic cathedral. Want to get away from the masses? Düsseldorf is a mere 30 minutes north on public transit.

Digging a tunnel for the riverfront autobahn, and people will come

The true catalyst for Düsseldorf’s urban renewal was the Rhine Tunnel, built in 1993. After extensive planning, the city dismantled the Bundesstrasse 1 highway that ran along the riverside. This concrete ribbon, which carried 55,000 cars daily, had severed the city and its Old Town from the beautiful riverfront. Once the road was moved underground, everything changed. The last coal mine in this formerly industrial trade center closed in 2018, further propelling redevelopment. The city’s business focus shifted to fashion, arts and tourism — with a drizzle of its Altbier heritage and famous Japantown.

As for the city’s name: Dorf means village in German, and the Düssel is a small nearby river. So why not call it Rheindorf since it sits on the Rhine? In the 1200s, when the settlement was founded, Rheindorf already existed. The city fathers pondered, then opted for Düsseldorf, named after the tiny tributary instead.

Eight hundred years later, the city is a lively metropolis full of iconic sights — nearly impossible to see in one visit, but worth trying.

Rhine Tower and old ports

Rhine Tower and Old Ports

What city doesn’t love a towering landmark with a view? St. Louis has the Arch, Paris has the Eiffel Tower, and Berlin has the TV Tower. Düsseldorf’s answer is the Rhine Tower (Rheinturm), completed in 1981. Its 551-foot observation deck offers sweeping views of the riverfront and skyline. The tower’s shaft features a vertical digital 24-hour clock that lights up at night. (Tip: Read it from top to bottom — top two rows for hours, next two for minutes, last two for seconds — but you’ll need to count the lights.) 

The Media Harbor (Medienhafen) is another architectural marvel. Once an abandoned industrial port, it is now home to international companies, especially in media and fashion. Some of the world’s top architects — Frank Gehry, David Chipperfield, Claude Vasconi and others — crafted the striking structures here. Visitors can stroll the promenades, stay in a waterfront hotel or choose from a variety of bars and restaurants. At night, illuminated buildings and footbridges shimmer across the water.

Food and flavors à la Düsseldorf

When in Düsseldorf, don’t automatically default to schnitzel and potatoes. Instead, explore Little Tokyo, a lively Japantown just a half-mile from the main train station. Centered around Immermannstrasse, the neighborhood ballooned when Japanese professionals moved to the city after World War II to work for Japanese companies — bringing their families, culture and food with them.

Having traveled to Japan many times, I was transported back just by walking through Little Tokyo, smelling seaweed, tea and simmering broths. I haven’t tasted ramen as deliciously slurp-worthy as that at Takumi’s several outlets or the low-key Zero Banchi. Small boutiques offer delicate art, tea varieties (stop by Kyoto by Japan Art Deco for an elegant selection) and manga merchandise.

And the mochi — oh my. Daily fresh at Aiko’s Mochi, with traditional flavors like red bean paste or green tea, plus modern takes like Oreo Cream Cheese and Tiramisu. I’m still dreaming of those soft, creamy pillows of rice dough.

You can also visit the Löwensenf mustard shop in Old Town. Düsseldorf has been the hometown of this global favorite since 1920. Mustard enthusiasts can explore flavor twists such as coconut-curry, honey-dill and red wine-plum. Samples help you choose unique gifts impossible to find outside Germany.

After taking in the views from the Rhine Tower and indulging in mochi and ramen, head to Old Town to experience Düsseldorf’s brewery culture. Visit one of the historic public houses that still brew their own beer, such as Uerige. It’s bare-bones. Ask for wine and the waiter will instantly know you’re a tourist. Ask for water and you’ll get a scowl. The Altbier, however, is renowned — dark in color but not heavy like a stout or porter.

Old Town historic sights — all ready to explore on foot

Having risen above the city, walked the riverfront and indulged in its flavors, continue wandering through Old Town’s cobblestone streets. Here you’ll find ancient castle towers, a church tower with a twist for stability, a statue of cartwheeling children, a riverside tide clock marked with historic high-water levels and a musical clock.

Then there’s the hulking bronze “Stadterhebungsmonument” (City Founding Monument), commemorating the city’s 700th anniversary. Take a few moments to explore the intricate details — skulls, swords, soldiers and city charters. Sculpted by Bert Gerresheim, it was unveiled in 1988.

About those cartwheelers: You’ll see the city’s emblem everywhere, from fountains to manhole covers. No one is certain of its origin, but one story suggests that children began cartwheeling in joy after the city’s 1288 battle victory that granted Düsseldorf city rights. Embracing its acrobatic heritage, the city has held an annual cartwheeling tournament since 1937. Keep an eye out for the cartwheel symbol throughout town.

The spectacle of pre-Lent carnival

If your travels bring you to Germany in late winter, Düsseldorf’s carnival — especially its final parade — is not to be missed. The floats are famous for satirizing global issues and political figures. Nobody is spared from the sharp wit of float creator Jacques Tilly, who has been designing papier-mâché wagons for the Shrove Monday parade since 1983. Considering his no-holds-barred portrayals of Putin, Trump and even the pope, one wonders how he still walks the streets unbothered.

Whether summer or winter, don’t dream of skipping Düsseldorf.

Storyteller, camera bug, wordsmith and official cheesecake tester, Therese Iknoian specializes in insider travel insights, the people who make a place tick and abandoned-places photography. See more photos by Therese Iknoian and check out the HITravelTales website and newsletter she runs with her husband, Michael.