Sipping the Sun in Colorado’s Wine Country

Perched against the backdrop of the rugged Rockies, the Western Slope of Colorado is a veritable garden of vineyards and wineries. This region, often overshadowed by its more famous counterparts in other parts of the U.S., offers a burgeoning wine scene, where tradition meets innovation, and every bottle reflects the landscape’s rich, diverse terroir. As I ventured into this oenological oasis, I was captivated not just by the wines, but by the passionate people who have staked their claim in this challenging industry. From winemakers crafting experimental vintages to chefs highlighting local ingredients in their menus, the Western Slope is a canvas painted with ambition, resilience, and a deep-rooted love for the land.

At the heart of this endeavor is the Colorado Governor’s Cup, an annual wine competition held by the Colorado Wine Industry Board. A passion for winemaking is palpable as we taste our way through the two American Viticultural Areas in the state, with stops at tasting rooms and vineyards of Governor’s Cup winners. We get a glimpse into the philosophy behind each winner’s craft. “Wine is about connection,” we hear again and again, as winemakers show us around picturesque vineyards where vines twist and turn under the bright Colorado sun. Each grape reflects its environment—rooted in the soil, nourished by the climate, and shaped by the care of the hands that tend them. Here, the challenges of viticulture within the extremes of Colorado’s climate are not to be underestimated; the elevation, temperature fluctuations, and the unpredictable whims of weather all play a role. Dr. Horst Caspari, CSU’s State Viticulturist, elaborates on these challenges, offering insights into the meticulous strategies employed by local growers to cultivate successful harvests. These strategies are part of a set of best practices developed by Dr. Caspari and his team with Colorado State University’s Viticulture research lab. The lab includes an experimental vineyard growing varietals that are new to the area yet thrive in the extremes of Colorado’s weather. It is a delicate dance of science and art, that plays out over years before anything reaches a glass.

I found myself enchanted not just by the vineyards, but by the local culinary scene that thrives alongside the wine industry. At Pêche, line cooks were busy preparing dishes that celebrated the region’s commitment to agriculture and a thriving local food system. The passion of Matthew Chasseur, Chef and Ashley Fees Chasseur, General Manager was evident in the attention to detail in the cuisine and style of service. I watched as kitchen staff plated a charred broccolini appetizer which was paired with Buckel Family Wines’ 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, a crisp, refreshing wine that sang with notes of citrus and green apple. The melding of flavors was a testament to the philosophy of “terroir,” where what grows on the earth is intricately tied to what fills our plates. The chefs here not only showcase the wines but also collaborate with local wineries to create pairings that elevate both food and drink. It was a moment that encapsulated the spirit of the region: an unyielding commitment to quality and community.

The creativity doesn’t stop in the kitchen; it is abundantly evident in the wineries themselves. At Red Fox Cellar, the winemakers decided to push the boundaries of convention with their Cabernet Franc Avant Garde Reserve Rye Whiskey Barrel Aged. Originally conceived as an experimental vintage, it quickly became a customer favorite, leading to the release of a second edition. This innovation is indicative of the broader trends in Colorado’s wine industry—risk-taking and experimentation are not just encouraged; they are celebrated. At Sauvage Spectrum Winery, Kaibab Sauvage and winemaker Patric Matysiewski welcomed our group into their vineyard with a bottle of Pet Nat Sparklet White, part of their affordable sparkling wine line that celebrates diversity. Here, I learned about their commitment to sustainability and accessibility, ensuring that wine is a pleasure for everyone to experience.

As the sun began casting golden hues across the vines, I found myself at Storm Cellar, where a bottle of their 2021 Rosé of Chambourcin awaited me. Whole cluster pressed and naturally fermented, this wine embodies the spirit of the Western Slope: fresh, vibrant, and bursting with flavor. Storm Cellar specializes in white and rose wines, “because that is what we enjoy drinking ourselves,” shares Jayme Henderson. Jayme, along with her husband Steve Steese, is a pair of former Denver sommeliers turned winemakers. The two have been on a roll as of late, kicking off 2024 by scoring 95 points for Storm Cellar’s 2020 Dry Estate Riesling, after being named Colorado Winery of the Year in 2023. Sipping the Rosé of Chambourcin while overlooking the sprawling vineyards in the West Elk Mountains was a gorgeously unique experience. The owners shared their story of perseverance, overcoming the odds to establish their winery in an area often dismissed by traditional winemaking standards. It was a reminder that this region, with its challenging weather patterns and alpine-desert terroir, produces wines that defy expectations and resonate with a distinct identity.

The experiences throughout the Western Slope revealed a microcosm of human endeavor, passion, and creativity. At every vineyard and restaurant, the stories intermingled with the scents of fermentation and the sounds of clinking glasses. I recalled the roasted beets with citrus at Bin707 Foodbar, the flavors melding seamlessly with a backdrop of shared laughter and lively conversation. This chef-driven restaurant is a notable contribution to the Grand Junction restaurant scene. Owner and Chef Josh Niernberg is a restaurateur committed to showcasing the abundant local food available in Grand Junction. Bin707 Foodbar is the crown jewel of the diverse concepts he runs within the area. Here, food and wine become vessels of community, binding together the growers, winemakers, and chefs into a singular narrative woven through the fabric of Colorado’s culture. As I departed this understated destination in the wine world, I felt a sense of hope and possibility. The Western Slope of Colorado is not just a burgeoning wine region; it is a testament to the power of passion and resilience. The stories of its winemakers and chefs are a reminder that, like a fine wine, great things often take time to develop. With every sip, we are not just tasting the fruit of the vine; we are experiencing the heart and soul of a community determined to carve its place in the world of wine. As the sun set behind the mountains, I couldn’t help but smile at the thought of the adventures yet to come, eager to return and explore even more of what this vibrant region has to offer.