Three Willamette Valley Wineries Wine Lovers Should Know

Between Portland and Eugene, Ore., mountain ranges surround a river valley on three sides. The Cascades, the Coast Range and the Calapooia Mountains form the oval shape of this 150-mile-long region. When pioneers moved west along the Oregon Trail two centuries ago, some called the Willamette Valley — which follows its namesake river — the “promised land of milk and honey” for its rich soils and ideal climate. While many kinds of crops have been grown and livestock raised here, it’s only been in the last 60 years or so that vineyards have emerged and wineries have achieved world-class status. And in this extensive wine region, Pinot noir dominates.

Nearly all of the 600-plus wineries in the Willamette region produce this delicate varietal in a bowl-like environment that creates ideal grape-growing conditions, with warm days and cooler nights from Pacific Ocean winds and fog. Many who aren’t familiar with wine or are novice connoisseurs appreciate Pinot noir for its complexity and light to medium body. It doesn’t seem as intimidating as heavier reds like Cabernet Sauvignon. Thus, if I lived in this part of Oregon, I would likely spend my spare time exploring as many wineries as I could and discovering my favorites.

With such an overwhelming number of wineries to visit, I am glad that, with the help of local wine journalist and public relations specialist Carl Giavanti, I can. He arranged visits to three wineries for my husband, our friend and me to taste some incredible wines. But while I appreciate a wonderfully crafted Pinot noir, I wanted to discover varietals that were equally impressive, along with the unique stories of the three wineries. Two were on the outskirts of Newberg, while one was near Carlton — both small towns just outside Portland.

Ghost Hill Cellars

For more than a century and through six generations, the Bower family has cultivated 234 acres of vineyards atop a hill with a haunted past. While Ghost Hill’s main complex — which includes an expansive tasting room with a stunning 360-degree view of the Willamette Valley below — is impressive, its legend nearly matches the superb wines they produce. When locals discovered gold in southern Oregon in the late 1800s, prospectors descended on the area. A road passed through the current property, and when a claimant and his horse camped out, robbers stole the claim and murdered both. As such, winery workers have occasionally reported ghostly activity.

But visitors should not let minor hauntings deter them from visiting this picturesque winery, which is a popular wedding venue during the warmer months. The valley where Ghost Hill sits has a sunny climate tempered by foggy, cooler air from the Coastal Range to the west. It’s the perfect environment for Pinot Noir Blanc, one of the winery’s most awarded varietals. Made from red Pinot grapes without skins, it has bright, clean fruit notes with a slight mineral finish and pairs well with white fish and shellfish.

While I was hunting for wines besides Pinot noir, I sampled several Ghost Hill vintages. We tasted the 2019 and 2021 Prospector’s Reserve (there was no 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic). Made from four Pinot clones, both had medium body and acidity, with dark berry notes and a hint of vanilla. The 2019 vintage was slightly more mellow. But neither was as smooth as the 2016 Bayless Bower, which benefited from nearly 10 years of aging. Savoring a Pinot like this confirms that fine wines take time.

Potter’s Vineyard

Perched on a hill 700 feet above sea level, this property resembles a neighbor’s rural farmland. But instead of a backyard, there’s a five-acre vineyard guarded by a friendly yellow Labrador retriever named Terra. Next to the family home is a pottery studio and airy shop selling artwork by the vintner and artist, Bill Sanchez. He and his wife, Sandy, started their boutique winery in 2012 after an inspirational trip to Italy. Combining his extensive career as a nutritional scientist with her background in family food and winemaking traditions, they’ve created a beautiful wine-tasting experience ideal for private parties and small groups.

That’s exactly how we enjoyed our time at Potter’s. Bill and Sandy designed a completely personalized tasting menu for our party, including two whites and three reds. Since their property only allows for grape growing, they make their wine through a cooperative winemaking facility with other small vintners and contract with other vineyards for grapes. Bill explained that they maximize space on their own property by using densely planted vines that produce more fruit. Trellising allows more sun to ripen grape clusters. They optimize volcanic and loamy soil for sustainability and regeneration. With deep-rooted vines, minimal irrigation and tilling are necessary.

All this great care in the vineyard shows up in the finished product — the bottles. While I loved the 2014 Sauvignon blanc and the 2022 Chardonnay (both made from grapes sourced elsewhere), I truly enjoyed their two Pinot noir offerings — both proprietary to their property — as well as the Cabernet Sauvignon. The Pinot wines had a wonderfully full body and complexity, with notes of cherry, dark berry and pepper; the 2016 Estate Reserve was naturally smoother than the 2023 Barrel Select Estate. Of the two excellent white wines, I especially enjoyed the Sauvignon blanc for its citrus notes. It also happened to be one of Sandy’s favorites.

Bells Up Winery

The first time I heard of this micro-boutique winery, I assumed its name had something to do with literal bells raised to the sky. But co-owner Dave Specter explained that “bells up” refers to holding a French horn ready to play in an orchestra. I knew then this place would bring a sense of enjoyment and casualness often missing at larger wineries. Dave left his high-pressure career as a corporate tax attorney in Ohio after he and his wife, Sara, visited the Willamette Valley and decided on winemaking as their second act.

In their compact but spacious tasting room, adjacent to the barrels aging their wines, Dave explained that they purchased a five-acre vineyard, blackberry bushes and Christmas trees — all of which initially impeded their vineyard progress — along with the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic. With persistence, the couple grew and harvested their grapes to create award-winning wines, nearly all named after classical music pieces. We tried seven of them — two whites, one sparkling white, one rosé and three reds. With each pour, Dave brought a sense of fun as we guessed which foods would pair well.

Keeping with my objective to find wines beyond Pinot noir, I enjoyed the Rosé Prelude, made from Pinot grapes, and the two whites — Pinot blanc and Seyval blanc. But the Pinot noir vintages were also noteworthy, especially Jupiter, which offered an excellent balance of dark berries and acidity. Titan was another Pinot noir with fantastic structure and would pair well with salmon or poultry. But I knew Bells Up was a place I could feel comfortable when Dave suggested their Rosé Prelude could pair equally well with a holiday feast or a cheeseburger. That essentially epitomizes the Willamette Valley experience.

Janice Sakata-Schultze is a travel writer, blogger, photographer and certified advisor. She specializes in culinary, active adventure and wellness travel. Her work has appeared in AAA Colorado EnCompass, Matador Network, Confetti Travel Café, Go World Travel and Travel World International. She enjoys cooking, fitness, sports, reading and knitting. She lives in Golden, Colo., with her family.