So, we were headed to Italy …
As we checked out of our boutique hotel in the hamlet of Kiens, my husband, Franco, was speaking German to the innkeeper. I was listening because my German is rather rusty. As we got into our SUV rental, I asked Franco, “Did she just say that we were heading to Italy today? Aren’t we in Italy?”
He chuckled. “Yes, technically we are in Italy; however, here, people think of themselves as Tyrolean.” As we drove out of Kiens and toward our journey through the Dolomites into “Italy,” I started to think about the last 48 hours and how much nuance there is to life in this small pocket between the Austrian border and the Dolomites.
Our trip started with a non-stop flight from San Diego to Munich two days prior. This trip was part leisure and part family visit. Franco grew up in Alto Adige in the city of Trento. This northern region of Italy is full of history, tasty regional cuisine, smaller cities rich in architecture, and postcard views of Heidi-style homes that dot the landscape vistas of the Alps. The people in this region embrace outdoor activities such as hiking, skiing, and biking. There is an appreciation and respect for the past and a mix of ./innovative businesses of the future.
We have learned that when we fly intercontinental overnight flights, we shouldn’t kid ourselves that we won’t have a serious bout of jet lag. Now, when we travel internationally, we land, get our rental vehicle, or if we’re not renting a vehicle, take public transportation or a taxi, to then arrive at a nearby hotel with a restaurant. In Europe, that is easy as many hotels have a restaurant, and in Europe, the breakfasts in the hotels are always one of my favorite meals.
When we landed at the airport in Munich, we rented our SUV. We had rented a basic car; however, with the encouragement of the rental agent, we steered toward the decision of a larger, sturdier SUV. The reason the agent strongly suggested we consider upgrading to an SUV was that if we rented the car, it would come with chains for the tires, which we would need to put on in case of snowy weather.
On this trip, we proceeded to a nearby Radisson Hotel. Located close to the airport, this hotel was minimalistic, catering to business travelers with an open concept bar/lobby area, offering a light menu in the evening, and that full-on European breakfast room I so adore.
This is a good trick: land, get to a hotel, settle in, check and respond to emails and calls, and then let the jet lag hit. Once the tiredness takes over, take a nap for an hour or two, then freshen up and head down for a light dinner. This relaxed approach sets you up for success.
The next morning, with our bellies full from a European breakfast spread of amazing meats, cheeses, yogurt, fruits and an array of homemade bread — all washed down with juice and a fantastic cup of coffee or tea — we were ready to hit the road.
As we made our way into the Südtirol region of Italy, I began to feel the Alpine influence while gazing at the approaching Alps, where green grass peeked through the remaining snow of the winter season. It was early March, and the first signs of spring were apparent, yet the air still held a crisp winter feeling.
Our first stop: Brixen (Bressanone in Italian). Art, culture and history play an important role in this historic city center, the oldest town in Tyrol. Originally a settlement, Brixen gradually grew into a town; a local parish was established, and construction began on the cathedral and bishop’s palace, as well as town walls completed around 1150. For centuries, Brixen was an influential seat of prince-bishops and acted as a bridge between southern Germany and northern Italy. The Renaissance left its mark, but the Baroque period truly shaped the town and its architecture. Later, following the construction of the Brenner Railway in 1867, Brixen became a flourishing spa town.
As we strolled through the city center, we stopped at a café for a light bite. We didn’t want a full lunch, still satisfied from our breakfast. An order of sausage and bread did the trick. I love wandering old European city centers because you are truly walking through history. Franco spotted a bäckerei (panificio in Italian) and made a beeline for the door. Growing up in this region, he is very particular about his bread, and he knows traditional varieties I’ve never tasted. The shop buzzed with locals picking up their daily bread. Franco noticed Schüttelbrot — a traditional, hard, crunchy flatbread from South Tyrol. Historically, it was baked only a few times a year in Alpine farmhouses so it could last through winter.
That is one thing I appreciate about traveling with my husband: I can be immersed in local customs and traditions. Over the past 25 years, these experiences have broadened my knowledge through a more hyperlocal lens. Often this drives our choices on where to travel and what to do, spending time in smaller villages rather than touristy cities.
Our next stop was il Maso dello Speck, an entire shop and museum dedicated to speck, the lightly smoked ham specific to Alto Adige. After our speck stop, we popped over to the cathedral, which was well worth the visit. Brixen Cathedralseems almost out of place in such a small town, but its grandeur reveals how important medieval Brixen was. The exterior, with its Austrian-style bell tower, feels Baroque; inside is a blend of Baroque and medieval styles.
If you are visiting Brixen during Christmas market season, the Domplatz is the center of the action, and the Light and Music Show at the Hofburg is a must-see.
After leisurely touring Brixen, we hopped back in the car and made our way to Kiens (Chienes in Italian), where we would spend the night. A quiet village, Kiens is known for its sunny location in the Val Pusteria (Pustertal) valley and its proximity to the Kronplatz (Plan de Corones) ski area. It’s popular with outdoor enthusiasts who enjoy hiking, cycling and skiing. The hamlet features a historic parish church and sits near Issengo Lake and other natural attractions.
We were at the tail end of ski season, so the village was quiet and mostly void of tourists. As we pulled into the parking area of Hotel Elisabeth, I was delighted by the ambience. The hotel looked more like an Alpine residence than a hotel. An open patio area near the main entrance was occupied by local men in Austrian-style jackets and hats chatting, playing cards and sipping drinks. A couple of ladies nearby soaked in the sunny day.
We were delighted when we opened the door. The design, furnishings and view transported us to a time when travel was simple: well-kept rooms, crisp clean linens and feather beds. Our view opened to the Alps, accompanied by the soundtrack of a babbling stream below. The hotel was quiet, and the restaurant served only breakfast because we were between seasons — ski season ending, and the Freiluftleben season of hiking and biking not yet begun.
We settled in and decided on an afternoon drive. The valley is picturesque, dotted with tiny hamlets and homes perched on alpine mountainsides that make you marvel at how they were built. Winding roads revealed postcard-perfect views at every turn.
As we drove back into Kiens, we passed a hotel next to the village church with a restaurant. Research revealed it was a family-owned hotel and restaurant — Gassenwirt — dating back to 1602. The Michelin-recommended spot specializes in South Tyrolean cuisine and has earned a Bib Gourmand Award. Decision made: this would be dinner.
We arrived right at opening since we didn’t have a reservation. They seated us at a Stube-style table near the bar and kitchen. I noticed the owners dining at a nearby table, warmly chatting with staff. The atmosphere felt like eating in someone’s home.
The food was outstanding, and the portions generous. I started with a three-knödel (dumpling) sampler plate followed by schnitzel with potato salad. Franco ordered homemade schlutzkrapfen ravioli, then a grilled South Tyrolean beef steak with potatoes and vegetables.
As fantastic as the food was, the atmosphere was the highlight. Mostly locals, along with a few hotel guests, filled the room with laughter and conversation — and then the accordion player arrived. Dressed in traditional Alpine attire, he moved around the restaurant, playing and entertaining diners.
We finished dinner, strolled through the historic hotel’s common areas and were reminded why traveling off the beaten path is so rewarding.
Back at Hotel Elisabeth, we strolled along the nearby brook, took pictures of the moonlit sky, and enjoyed the feeling of village life in Tyrol. After a restful sleep, we headed downstairs for breakfast — abundant, traditional, and graciously served, as if we were staying in someone’s home. Only one solo traveler joined us.
After breakfast, we finished packing and headed to check out. The innkeeper was curious and began speaking in German. Franco explained that we were heading to Trento through the Dolomites, that I had never driven through them, and he wanted to show me the scenic route. That’s when she said, “Oh, so you are headed to Italy today,” then pointed to the sky and warned that a storm was coming.
As we made our ascent into the Dolomites, we passed ski villages where skiers walked to pickup spots, the click of ski boots echoing along the sidewalks. We stopped for coffee and pastries a couple of times, enjoying the Alpine architecture, jovial atmosphere and crisp air. Signage in the area appeared in three languages — German, Italian and Ladin, a Romance language spoken in the Dolomite Mountains.
Higher into the jagged peaks, the weather began to turn. The summits disappeared into snow-filled clouds. Smaller cars pulled to the roadside to put on chains. We were extremely glad we had upgraded to an SUV.
As we made our way up through the jagged peaks of the Dolomites, the weather started to turn, and the peaks disappeared in the snow-filled clouds. Smaller cars were on the side of the road putting on their chains. We were extremely glad we had upgraded to an SUV.
As we started our descent, we passed through Calfosch, the highest permanently inhabited village in Val Badia. I snapped a photo for my friend and ski travel agent with Ski.com, Shanon Jensen, who has taken groups there to ski.
As we started our descent, we passed through Calfosch, the highest permanently inhabited village in Val Badia. I snapped a photo for my friend and ski travel agent with Ski.com, Shanon Jensen, who has taken groups there to ski.
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