Beyond the Beach on the Côte d’Azur (French Riviera)

*In the 1920s, tan skin became the trend in the footsteps of fashion icon Coco Chanel.*

Should we head straight to the beach?

Perhaps not.

*All the town is brushed by beaches with mesmerizing azure waters.*

*In the water garden, the statue of Venus (goddess of love), is adorned with papyrus.*

The gardens and parks of the Côte d’Azur may not be as well-known compared to the beaches and cities of this famous part of France, but they are plentiful, varied, beautiful, and certainly worth visiting.

*Towering palm trees seem to stand guard over the mirror-like pond and Chinese fountain.*

When Alfred Hitchcock traveled to the French Riviera to film the spectacular scenery for his 1955 movie, To Catch a Thief, he inadvertently changed the course of its history. For it was during the presentation of his movie at the Cannes Film Festival that his renowned film star was first introduced to the beauty of Monaco and its reigning prince. As they say it is, “the stuff of which dreams are made of,” for screen goddess, Grace Kelly, became its most beloved and revered princess.

However, long before Hitchcock’s presence, a few other Brits were instrumental in creating the legendary Côte d’Azur. Initially established as a winter health retreat for the British elite at the close of the 18th century. The area transformed into a vacation hot spot for British, Russian, and other aristocrats, including figures like Queen Victoria, Tsar Alexander II, and the then Prince of Wales (future king Edward VII) following the arrival of the railway by the mid-19th century. They built magnificent homes for themselves and developed the famous Promenade des Anglais along the Baie des Anges in Nice. At their arrival, the elite encountered mostly farmers tending to their olive groves or fishermen mending their fish nets, a group of poor natives and modest inhabitants. What the nobility consequently introduced to these parts of the world was a degree of sophistication previously unknown. They enjoyed seaside baths, hosting dinner parties with their peers, and exchanging stories about their exciting findings, in addition to their love for gardens and gardening. A close-knit community, they frequently gifted one another, sharing rare plants collected during their travels to far-off lands, mainly from their colonies such as India or South Africa.

While the European nobility “discovered” the French Riviera in the 1800s as a winter retreat, it wasn’t until the 1920s that it became the summer craze we recognize today. During July or August, it can be quite challenging to find a spot on the beach to place your towel, it is surprising to think that, until the 1920s, summer tourists were nonexistent here!

*As the garden is on different levels, climbing plants can be found along retaining walls.*

In 1880, Menton became a fashionable seaside resort favored by English and Russian aristocracy.
A former Mediterranean fishing port where pleasure boats harmoniously mingle with fishing vessels.

For a cornucopia of scents and to tickle your tastebud, visit the local market.

But the Riviera offers more than just beaches, so venturing beyond them can be most rewarding. To experience this yourself, head towards the Italian border and get lost in the maze-like alleyways of the pastel-colored stunning Menton’s Old Town. A walk in the Old Town takes you to gorgeous medieval Menton via St Michael’s ramp. You will reach the calade (pebbled mosaics) of the Basilica Square, the Chapel of the White Penitents, and then the Cemetery of the Old Castle. From there you’ll have a breathtaking view over the “Big Blue”, the Italian coastline, and on a clear day even towards Corsica. On the way back, stop and look inside the covered market and sample some of its great variety of fresh produce directly from local artisans, be it fresh olives, cheeses, bakeries, fruits, or freshly cut flowers and plants.

*It’s a steep climb to the top, but here is a glance at the steeple.*

*Medieval stone steps and passages lead upward through the old town.*

*The old town is an open-air work of art composed of ancient colorful facades*

*The pastel-colored building in ocher, pink and yellow has kept the charm of yesteryear.*

*Calades (pebbled mosaics) were built to withstand the elements and facilitate the passage of donkeys.*

*At dusk the St Michael’s church and ramp turn theatrical.*

First established in the 11th century by the Count of Ventimiglia, this city was ruled respectively by the Republic of Genoa, Monaco, the Kingdom of Sardinia, and then France. Traces of this vibrant history are still visible at the Palais de Carnoles, known as Menton’s Museum of Fine Arts, along with its amazing citrus garden. Originally constructed in the 18th century as a summer retreat for the Prince of Monaco, it provides a refreshing escape on a hot summer day, featuring numerous inviting benches shaded by its abundant trees. Thanks to the ideal Mediterranean climate, the gardens created at this time allowed rare species, from all over the world, to acclimatize and spread. Classified among the remarkable gardens of France, the wonderful garden of the Palais de Carnoles surrounds the former summer residence and is renowned for its exceptional collection of over 130 citrus varieties, making it the largest conservatory of its kind in Europe. You’ll discover a diversity of species, from Menton’s lemons and kumquats to rare varieties of citron and grapefruit, standing side by side with contemporary works of art that adorn the park. It is a genuine paradise of calm and serenity, perfect for a sensory journey through the history and captivating scents of the Côte d’Azur.

*Mere steps from the Italian border, Menton sits where the Maritime Alps meet the Mediterranean Sea.*

*The artwork displayed around the garden varies from classical to modern.*

*The Palais de Carnoles citrus garden trees are not overcrowded and offer lots of shadows at just 100 meters from the beach*.

Major Lawrence Waterbury Johnston, founder of the estate known as Serre de la Madone, was passionate about art and gardening. He spent much of his youth exploring various castles and gardens throughout Europe. Born in Paris to wealthy American parents, he grew up in France before attending Trinity College, Cambridge. Known for his reserved and discreet nature, he became a naturalized English citizen in 1900 to join the British army during the Boer War in South Africa and World War I. In the 1920s, during a visit to his mother, who was spending the winter on the French Riviera, Laurence fell in love with Menton. He gathered many rare plants during his global travels, and once he established Serre de la Madone, where he spent his winters from 1924 to 1954, he focused on creating a garden with terraces cascading down the hillside.

*Major Lawrence Johnston drew inspiration from the great gardens he so admired in neighboring Italy*.

The author in the water garden, enjoying this lush sanctuary, away from the bustling beaches.

Johnston lived in solitude in his house, accompanied by twenty-three servants and ten dogs. At the estate’s highest point, he built a vast aviary that covered nearly a hectare of forest, where macaws, golden pheasants, peacocks, parrots, ibises, and crowned cranes roamed semi-freely. At one time, a dozen gardeners maintained the land. Serre de la Madone is a personal and intimate garden, and although it likely appeared quite different at its inception, reaching the belvedere offers a breathtaking view of both the garden and the surrounding landscape. Hidden by the mauve clusters of wisteria, this shaded pergola provides a fresh perspective of the villa. In the water garden, the statue of Venus is adorned with papyrus, surrounded by exotic water lilies and water hyacinths. In another area, is the renowned lotus, Nelumbo nucifera, or sacred lotus and national flower of India. Situated in the Bay of Garavan, just a few kilometers from the Italian border, Serre de la Madone spans seven hectares of agricultural and wooded land on the steep inclines of the Sierra de la Madona.

*Major Lawrence Johnston spirit, passion and love for plants and garden still lingers on.*

The Villa Maria Serena exotic gardens, sheltered by the surrounding hills afford a unique glow at sunset.

Close to the Italian border is the Villa Maria Serena, constructed in 1886, with a garden that also enjoys the unique microclimate of the Menton area. It’s said that temperatures here never drop below 5 degrees Celsius, creating perfect conditions for many plants such as palm trees, cicadas, strelitzias, dracaenas, and bauhinias to thrive and reach their full growth potential. Its last official owner was the British banker Henri Koenig, who in 1947 donated the Villa to the town of Menton. Since then, Villa Maria Serena has hosted receptions with famous guests such as Queen Astrid of Belgium and many other distinguished personalities renowned in art and culture.

Now, to the beach. Shall we?