A riot of blooming wildflowers amidst the ruins of ancient civilizations, sunny skies, warm weather, and best of all, far fewer tourists competing to see the extraordinary sights that Greece has to offer, make Spring the best time to visit. Our original plan was an April trip to the Greek islands, but we were a month too early. Most hotels weren’t even open yet. History buffs and mythology fans, we weren’t giving up on Greece and chose a road trip around the Peloponnese Peninsula instead.
A riot of blooming wildflowers amidst the ruins of ancient civilizations, sunny skies, warm weather, and best of all, far fewer tourists competing to see the extraordinary sights that Greece has to offer, make Spring the best time to visit. Our original plan was an April trip to the Greek islands, but we were a month too early. Most hotels weren’t even open yet. History buffs and mythology fans, we weren’t giving up on Greece and chose a road trip around the Peloponnese Peninsula instead.
We chose a boutique hotel in a former sea captain’s home as our base. The busy harbor, lined not with working boats, but luxury yachts and other pleasure craft, enticing shops, and open-air restaurants with fresh fish on offer, was a five-minute walk in one direction. Syntagma Square, the center of the historic old town with museums, beautiful churches, and more restaurants and shops was five minutes the opposite way.
Where History Was Made
Syntagma or Constitution Square, remains the center of public and political life The Palamidi Castle, one of the best-preserved in Greece, looms 709 feet above the city. It was captured by the Turks only one year after its completion in 1715, ending the Venetians’ second occupation of Nafplio. The castle has spectacular views over the city and the sea, whether you choose to climb the 847 steps to reach it (some locals claim 999 steps), or drive, as we did. Wander the rooms, cells, and secret passageways and stop at St. Andrew’s Chapel to light a candle. Bring a picnic and soak up the sea air, sunshine, and panoramic views. Look for the rocky beach far below. Even though the water was cold, swimmers were enjoying a dip while sunbathers took advantage of the lovely Spring weather. Like most of the archeological sites we visited, the Castle is not accessible to mobility-challenged visitors. in Nafplio and it was here that the citizenry rose up and demanded independence from the Ottoman Empire. Standing in the center of the square you are surrounded by several of modern Greece’s most important buildings including the former mosque used as the country’s first Parliament and the homes of Greece’s first Governor Ioannis Kapodisrias, and War of Independence hero Theodoros Koloktronis. Nafplio’s Archeological Museum, housed in a 1713 Venetian building, forms the Western side of the Square. There are monuments, plaques and a War Museum proudly proclaiming the important role Nafplio’s citizens played in Greece’s War of Independence. The Square is a popular meeting place, lined with lively cafes and restaurants.
Sunday afternoons are perfect for a stroll and a leisurely lunch near the Nafplio harbor.
While you’re in the historic center, enjoy a leisurely stroll through the pedestrian-only shopping streets. Visit one of the beautiful Greek Orthodox churches here, like St. George’s Cathedral with both Byzantine and Venetian 16th century architecture. On Odos Kapodisriou, named for the first Governor, you’ll find St. Spyridon, the small church where he was murdered by political rivals.
The Conquerors
Legend has it that Nafplio was founded by the sea god Poseidon’s grandson. Over the centuries the city was captured and ruled by Byzantines, Franks, Venetians, and Turks before Greece won independence in 1830. These conquerors have all left their mark on Nafplio’s culture, architecture, and cuisine.
The Venetians were responsible for two of Nafplio’s best-known and most visible landmarks—the Bourtzi and Palamidi Castle, both open to the public. On arrival, you’ll see a small, fortified island in Nafplio’s harbor. Bourtzi means island fortress in Turkish, but it was originally named Castello dello Soglio by the Venetians who built it on the islet of St. Theodoroi in 1471 to protect the city and harbor from invading Ottomans. Take a 10-minute boat ride from the harbor to visit the Bourtzi. Extremely windy weather on the day we planned to visit kept us away.
The Venetians built this island fortress to protect the city from the Ottomans.
Built by the Venetians and conquered by the Ottomans a year later in 1715.
These figurines were discovered at
the archeological site at Tiryns and
date to 6th-5th century BC.
The Palamidi Castle, one of the best-preserved in Greece, looms 709 feet above the city. It was captured by the Turks only one year after its completion in 1715, ending the Venetians’ second occupation of Nafplio. The castle has spectacular views over the city and the sea, whether you choose to climb the 847 steps to reach it (some locals claim 999 steps), or drive, as we did. Wander the rooms, cells, and secret passageways and stop at St. Andrew’s Chapel to light a candle. Bring a picnic and soak up the sea air, sunshine, and panoramic views. Look for the rocky beach far below. Even though the water was cold, swimmers were enjoying a dip while sunbathers took advantage of the lovely Spring weather. Like most of the archeological sites we visited, the Castle is not accessible to mobility-challenged visitors.
The Archeological Museum of Nafplio is one of the city’s top sites and boasts exhibits that date back to the Paleolithic era. Pottery, clay and bronze seals, marble figurines, and other priceless antiquities, some more than 5,000 years old, await in this impressive building originally meant as a warehouse for the Venetian fleet. Clay hearths from 3,200-2,100 BC, stone and bone tools, jewelry, anthropomorphic clay figures, and some of the earliest handmade Neolithic clay vases are displayed, giving us a glimpse into what life was like then.
If you plan to spend several days in Nafplio and explore nearby archeological sites, buy the 20 Euro three-day combination ticket at Palamidi Castle or the Archeological Museum. It includes the Mycenae Archeological Site and Museum, the Byzantine Museum at Argolis (Argos), the Tiryns Archeological Site, the Nafplio Archeological Museum, Palamidi Castle, and the Asini Archeological Site.
No Worries
It’s common to see Greek men toying with a rhythmically clacking string of beads. These are komboloi—worry beads— and Nafplio has a unique museum dedicated to them. Komboloi became popular during the Turkish occupation but the use of beads for prayer, mediation, and to ward off evil can be traced to the 8th century BC. Always strung in odd numbers, the beads are traditionally barrel-shaped and made from amber, carnelian, horn, bone (buffalo and camel are popular) semi-precious stones, ivory, or olive wood. Along with komboloi, the museum has a spectacular collection of beads dating from 1550 to 1950 including Muslim prayer beads brought back by the Crusaders and converted to rosary beads, and Hindu and Buddhist meditation beads. No photos were allowed in the Museum.
Because Nafplio is closely associated with komboloi, there are shops selling beads of varying quality everywhere. I liked Amber House at 12 Vos. Konstantinou, which carries locally crafted komboloi. Natural materials make the most satisfying sounds and are meant to soothe, owner Angelika told me. She had me hold several komboloi to find the most comfortable string and listen to the sounds the beads made before purchasing.
Tiryns and Hercules
In 468 BC the ancient city of Tiryns was sacked by neighboring Argos. Today, wildflowers, poppies, and chamomile bloom among the remaining stone foundations of the once-thriving kingdom. Climb the stone steps to the upper ramparts and use your imagination to see where the palace once stood, as well as homes and shops in this community of 15,000. Fun fact: Hercules’ mother (Greeks call him Heracles), Alcmene, was the Queen of Tiryns.
Mycenae and a Scandalous Story
One of the most important archeological sites in the world is perched high between two hills 30 minutes from Nafplio—home to the once mighty Mycenean civilization. This area has been inhabited since the 7th millennium BC, but the ruins here date from the late Bronze Age (1,350 to 1,200 BC). Excavation of the vast site began in 1876, funded by a German businessman with a penchant for Homerian heroes on a quest to find the burial site of Agamemnon.
Legend has it that the conquering hero returned home from war to find his wife Clytemnestra had taken up with Aegisthus, his cousin. Together they stabbed him to death in the bath, partly in revenge for sacrificing her daughter to ensure favorable winds for the Greeks as they sailed to Troy. The lovers are buried in giant beehive tombs, side by side, in the fields below the citadel. You’ll have to drive up the road and hike a bit to find Agamemnon’s larger, but solitary resting place. Don’t miss these ancient architectural wonders with their spectacular domes!
Mycenae is on the tourist route and there were busloads the morning we visited. The often-photographed Lions Gate is at the entrance and selfie-seekers can create a bottleneck. Be prepared to be awed as you follow the pathway up through the Cyclopean walls where you’ll find the ruined palaces, temples, royal burial circles, cistern, treasury, and fortifications. Note: The path is paved in some places and rocky dirt in others, making walking difficult for those with mobility challenges.
excavated from the Royal Burial Circle including gold
death masks, weapons, jewelry and silver and gold cups.
These enormous stones are a hallmark of Cyclopean architecture. It was thought that only creatures as great as the cyclops could have built with stones this size, not mortal men.
Whether you visit the Mycenae Museum before or after the archeological site is a personal preference, as long as you see it. More than 2,500 amazing treasures including fine gold works like Agamemnon’s exquisite death mask, everyday items like pottery, weapons, figurines, jewelry, and frescoes from the archeological site showcase the life and afterlife of the ancient Myceneans from the Bronze Age to the Hellenistic Era.
A Healing Place
Ancient Epidaurus and the Sanctuary of Asclepius were known as a curative place. Asclepius was the most important healing god in antiquity. Today the site draws visitors primarily for its theater, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for its perfect acoustics. Built around 340 BC, the Greek theater, which was expanded by the Romans to seat up to 14,000, is one of the best preserved in the world and is still used for performances. Climb up the steep stone steps to the top and listen to the “orators” below. After, head out to the sanctuary where you can visit temples, the gymnasium, and the enkoimeteria- a large hall where visitors would sleep and await for the gods to come to them in their dreams with health advice. There is also a small museum with sculptures and other excavated artifacts.
Byzantium
Snakes were the only thing on my mind as we followed the groundskeeper who, armed with a weedwhacker, cleared the tall grass between placards in the ancient agora, or marketplace, at Argos. Located right in the town, the ruins of Roman baths and the theater complex are across a busy street. They’re worth seeing, though there is little signage. The Byzantine Museum, housed in the historic Kapodistria Barracks, focuses on private, public, and religious life here, from 324 AD until 1453 AD. Everyday objects, pottery, sculpture, weapons, and religious artifacts that belonged to residents of one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world gave us a fascinating peek into the past.
This 13th century bowl is among the everyday objects on display at the Byzantine Museum in Argos, giving us a glimpse into life here.
Nafplio and the amazing archeological sites nearby filled us with wonder and sparked our interest in returning to this spectacular region for a deeper exploration of these ancient civilizations. Our road trip continued to Kalamata, Patras, Galaxidi, Delphi, and finally, Athens—a city we could have spent a month exploring. Those who choose the Peloponnese Peninsula as their destination, as we did, will be generously rewarded. We’ll visit the islands another time!
Practicalities
Nafplio is an easy drive from Athens, but country roads can be winding and narrow, especially in the mountains, and people drive fast. Most signage is in Greek and English but not all, so prepare by jotting down the Greek spelling for your destination, especially if it is off the main road, and bring paper maps. Most Greeks speak English, but they were tickled when we could say good morning, hello, goodbye, and thank you in their native tongue. Very few of the archeological sites we visited were accessible to people with mobility challenges. We stayed at 3Sixty Hotel & Suites in Nafplio. Some of our favorite restaurants were I Folio, Taverna Pidalio, Mevta, and 3Sixty Grill, all in Nafplio. Here are links to the sites we visited: Archeological Museum of Nafplio, Palamidi Castle, Archeological Site and Museum at Mycenae, Archeological Site at Tiryns, Archeological Site at Argos, Byzantine Museum in Argos, Epidaurus, the Bourtzi.
Driving on Greece’s main roads is easy, but narrow, winding, mountainous roads are more of a challenge.
Sanctuary of Asclepius, one of the most important healing places of the ancient world.
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