Cork, Cobh, and Kinsale: Discover Ireland’s Scenic and Culinary Gateway to the Wild Atlantic Way

History, culture, and food. That’s all I need for a great adventure, and in Ireland, I didn’t have to look too hard to find all three. Along the southwest corner of the beautiful island nation sits the Atlantic Way. Cork, Cobh, and Kinsale offer a rich tapestry of historical, cultural, and culinary delights at its gateway. Enticed, I could hardly wait to dive in and experience the authentic Irish spirit.

I start in Cork, the country’s second-largest city. Upon arrival, my hotel concierge suggested visiting the fabled St. Anne’s Church. Considered the city symbol, it’s an ideal launching point when exploring Cork. This 18th-century landmark features eight Shandon Bells, which visitors can ring themselves via an Ellacombe apparatus and play any number of songs available. I climbed the clock tower for a more panoramic view of the city, wearing headphones provided by church staff. After all, when others ring the bells, protecting your hearing is essential.

I usually take self-guided tours when traveling, but in Cork, I opted for an organized tour. Known as Ireland’s Foodie Capital, I decided on the Underground Donut Tour, which appealed to me the most. More than just donuts, this two-hour excursion combines food, history, and culture, and I was excited to pack on calories while seeing the sites. From pistachio cream donuts to chocolate-stuffed churros, I was in dessert heaven. But it was the stops along the way that intrigued me. I felt the city’s energy while strolling eclectic Oliver Plunkett Street, home to Cork’s pulsating shopping district. I got the inside scoop on the city’s iconic 18th-century English Market, one of the oldest in Europe. A culinary hub with fresh delights, it’s also a cultural, architectural, and historical beacon of hope, having survived famine, floods, war, and fires. Post-tour, I headed to the Cork Butter Museum – yes, a butter museum – and learned more about the city’s central role in the butter trade. Blarney, one of Ireland’s last standing estate villages, makes for an easy and memorable day trip. I painstakingly kissed the famous Stone of Eloquence, explored the castle, and blissfully meandered its eloquent grounds.

Next stop: Cobh (pronounced ‘Cove’), a short, scenic train ride from Cork famed for its colorful facades and rich history. I’m immediately struck by the town’s skyline, dominated by St. Colman’s Cathedral, prominently overlooking one of the largest natural harbors in the world. Eager to explore, I tackle hilly West View, where 23 iconic Deck of Cards houses, built in the 1850s and painted different colors provide exceptional photo ops and reward me with incredible views. 

Along the water, Cohb’s history comes alive. The Victorian Promenade, aka John F. Kennedy Memorial Park, features everything from a bandstand and playground to antique cannons and coffee stands. Ireland’s only dedicated cruise terminal, this tiny yet mighty town, was a shipbuilding mecca in the 19th century, launching the first steamship from Ireland to England in 1821 and the first steamship to cross the Atlantic in 1838. In Casement Square, an RMS Lusitania Memorial commemorates the sinking of the British ocean liner by a German U-boat in 1915. Nearby, the Cobh Heritage Centre illustrates the town’s central role as the main departure point for 2.5 million Irish emigrants to North America in the mid-19th century.  Home to the Titanic’s last port of call, the Titanic Experience is an immersive museum located in the historic White Star Line Building. Led by knowledgeable and interactive storytellers, families can explore the wide range of exhibits that bring the ship’s fateful voyage to life. 

While Cork and Cobh proved lovely, Kinsale captured my heart. This picturesque coastal gem, dubbed ‘Ireland’s Riviera,’ sparkles with soul at every turn. The sun’s breaking through the clouds; the air is fresh and crisp as I work up an appetite on Scilly Walk, a scenic riverside trail with views of two 17th-century fortresses: James Fort and star-shaped Charles Fort. In town, I smile, utterly captivated while meandering its narrow alleys, lined with bright-colored buildings adorned with beautiful floral arrangements cascading from windows and doors. While Kinsale’s galleries, bookshops, and boutiques reflect its rich, artistic legacy, its thriving culinary scene has turned heads worldwide. Despite a population of only 6,000, Kinsale boasts an astonishing 50+ eateries, offering a diverse culinary selection, earning its title as ‘The Gourmet Capital of Ireland.’

As someone with an insatiable appetite, I booked a spot with Kinsale Food Tours. Led by Suzanne Burns, this two-and-a-half-hour, four-stop culinary journey deliciously reflects the artisanal flavors of the region. Suzanne seamlessly adds a dash of history and heritage to the experience, reiterating Kinsale’s deep and unwavering passion for fresh food using local ingredients provided by local suppliers.

The food tour is just the tip of the culinary iceberg. Kinsale is home to four Michelin restaurants, including Rare (South Indian), Saint Francis Provisions (Mediterranean), Max’s (Seafood), and Bastion, a Michelin one-star that showcases local, contemporary Irish cuisine. If that isn’t enough, Kinsale is also home to several food festivals, including Moet & Chandon Restaurant Week, one of the country’s longest-running food fests, Street Feast, and the Gourmet Food Festival which has been going strong for over 40 years.