Landing in Reykjavík in the dead of winter the only expectation I had was to be surprised. Most of the images of Iceland I’ve seen focused on the Northern Lights and its spectacularly colorful summers, but this was different.
The nights are darkest of the dark and during the day the sun is in constant motion, changing shades from bright pink to golden yellow in what feels like a blink of an eye. At the highest peak of the sun, it still feels like twilight, but life goes on in the dark, in continuous fog, no matter the weather.
I was looking to be surprised and Iceland delivered plenty. From breathtaking views to vibrant nightlife, unique flavors, and unearthly spas, the land of fire and ice showed me its full spectrum.
Make time for Reykjavik
The drive from the airport to Reykjavik is under an hour. The first bit of it cuts through moss-covered lava fields and then, the city begins to open. Old and new developments welcome the sun through large windows, twinkly lights outlining windows in the dark.
The city stretches along the shore which in a different season might be quite scenic. But not today. Today it is moody and mysterious, a single ship, the Sun Voyager, drawing tourists off the main strip.
The heart of the city is within its pedestrian streets. Colorful two to three-story houses artfully painted make up the center. Each one is not like the other – some are red, some are blue, some have whimsical triangular rooftops, and others depict the country’s Viking heritage through intricate street art and structural design.
In the center of Reykjavik is the Church of Iceland, Hallgrímskirkja, designed by the country’s first architect Guðjón Samúelsson. It is one of the tallest buildings in the country designed to resemble its landscape. To me, however, it feels like an interplanetary tower. On the port side of the city is an ice cube-like concert hall and conference center, Harpa Tónlistarhús, covered in thousands of glass panels, inside and out.
Time in Reykjavik can be spent indulging in its impressive culinary scene (I hear Reykjavik Food Walk is fantastic), seeing its many museums, shopping, listening to live music, and relaxing in its many bars.
A few tips: Bring city clothes, make dinner reservations, and be willing to try new things.
Enjoy the healing power of Icelandic waters
The volcanic nature of Iceland creates an ideal environment for geothermal pools. Most spas have on-site restaurants serving fresh local cuisine and have an in-spa beverage service offering fresh juices and alcoholic drinks.
A few tips: Bring your own slippers and a hat, shower nude before entering the spa, and be ready to spend at least two hours.
Blue Lagoon is the most popular stop due to its convenient proximity to the airport. The lagoon is a large open space edged by black volcanic rocks. You can’t see through the water, and you can’t see far out through the steam, but the view is sensational nonetheless.
Having the world’s most famous spa behind us we entered Sky Lagoon near Reykjavík the following day. From the moment the spa doors opened the sense of awe took over. A narrow pathway curves to an open infinity pool protected from the elements by dark volcanic walls. The rising steam meets the foggy cloud creating minimal visibility and a comfortably warm microclimate. Opposite the bar, a dark staircase will take you through a seven-step Skjól wellness ritual.
Standing in the fog, mimosa in hand, my feet felt tender, and skin pruned. I was starting to feel more relaxed, new somehow. Perhaps even brave.
Another spa stop felt necessary and Hvammsvik Hot Springs was on the way. Here in the valley, we are exposed to the lake and frigid mountainous winds nearly blowing us off the road. “Hold your doors when exiting,” we all lock eyes in acknowledgment, both hands on the door handle.
At the end of the road is a black metallic barn with big windows exposing a softly lit interior. Multiple natural baths are nestled along the shore with one of them directly in the water, “We don’t recommend using that one today, hyperthermia sets in really fast,” I nodded in agreement, now scared a little. The main bath is partially enclosed by the barn with a bar window set directly over it so that you too can have the coldest glass of Chenin Blanc ever. Most people tend to huddle here, dipping in and out of the water to melt the frost forming along the hairline. But if you feel brave enough, you can run over to the other pools for a more organic experience with a 360° view of the mountains. I felt brave briefly. “You might never come back here again” the little voice in my head whispered moving me forward.
Leave the world behind for endless views and scenic drives
Much of this country can be seen through a car window with magnificent views from dusk till dawn at every turn. We opted to stay in the mountains to maximize our chances of seeing the Northern Lights making Múlakot Cozy Cabins our basecamp.
Tip: If you plan to walk or hike anywhere ice cleats are highly recommended.
A full day can be spent driving through Snaefellsnes Peninsula, West Iceland. Volcanic mountains of various complexion ribbon along the road occasionally giving way to the views of the ocean and fields of snow-frosted lava fields. A short winter day is ideal for this excursion, offering quick stops at Gerðuberg Cliffs, multiple waterfalls, and perhaps the world’s most scenic parking lot at the foot of Kirkjufell Mountain.
On a separate day, a simple drive can take you to Grábrók volcanic crater which time permitting you can hike in under an hour. Glanni Waterfall nearby is perhaps even more beautiful in the winter with the contrasting blue and black colours shining through the rushing water.
Stay up for the Northern Lights
This year came with a promise of high visibility of aurora borealis. This amazing phenomenon is very weather-dependent and while many people have been lucky to see it randomly, this show cannot be scheduled. An important aspect of a Northern Lights search is knowing when it’s time to try to see them. Aurora apps will let you know when the chances are high but the early winds with a low KP-index can only be seen through a camera.
Boat tours from Reykjavík will take you out on the water after dark for a chance to see the Northern Lights. These are fun experiences with light education, comfortable seats, and a cushy bar. Alternatively, all you need is a remote location with minimal light pollution. Our countryside cabin was about half an hour away from Borgarnes. The only other light was coming from the three neighboring cabins, all surely there for the same reason.
I’ve dreamt of this moment, seeing a live aurora feels like magic and while our remote cabin was wrapped in one tonight it was hardly strong enough for me to capture it with a 30-second exposure. Yet another reason to return.
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