Utah Offers Up an Amazing Winter Playground

What is “The Greatest Snow on Earth?” It’s some of the lightest and driest fluffy precipitation in the world that blankets the Wasatch Mountain Range in Utah. Each winter season, from November through April, the heavenly powder drifts across the mountains of the state. While this type of snow may happen elsewhere, in Utah it is a consistent gift from above. And it’s the gift that keeps on giving. While most of Utah’s 13 ski resorts average 300–500 inches of snow per year, up to 700 inches may fall during the season in a few of the lucky ski areas.

The quality of the snow is reliable and the amount is dependable. However, all the ski resorts in Utah are different from one another, though you’ll find charm, luxury, and fun everywhere you look. Most of the ski areas are within an hour drive from Salt Lake City International Airport, making it one of the more convenient ski destinations in the country.

Just 36 miles from the airport is the charming town of Park City, home of the Sundance Film Festival. Here there are three wonderful ski resorts, fantastic shopping, and a variety of dining options.

Deer Valley is the top-end resort for luxury and glamour. You won’t find snowboarders here; this is a ski-only area ranked the nation’s number one resort by many people in the industry.

If you’re an intermediate skier or snowboarder, you may want to try Park City Mountain Resort with the most intermediate terrain of all the resorts in Utah. And for a big rush, you must do the Alpine Coaster Ride. I had a blast on this thing. Feel free to wander over in your ski boots to jump on. Be brave; don’t use the hand-break. As your heart pounds and you’re sure you’re going to fly off the rails, you’ll be tempted to slow down—resist pulling on the brake —just hold on, yell, scream and enjoy! This resort is family-friendly and has four terrain parks to keep the wild ones busy.

The Canyons is the third resort in Park City and offers the largest skiable terrain with more advanced runs in Utah than the other resorts. Everything you need is on location in the Canyons Resort Village.

Also very close to the airport, in Little Cottonwood Canyon, are the resorts of Alta and Snowbird. Alta is the other skier-only resort in Utah and it’s been that way for 70 years. Tradition, scenic views, and powder will almost overwhelm you. Alta has a nice variety of terrain for any level of skier. And you won’t have to worry about a snowboarder running you over. Alta was my first true experience with powder skiing. I had fun learning to slice tracks through the 12 inches of fresh snow that had fallen the night before. The locals live for “powder days” and you’ll have to arrive early to take advantage of all that virgin terrain.

If you stay at the Alta Lodge, the walk down the old wooden staircase might make you think twice, but once settled in, you’ll understand the charm. This is a classic ski lodge, rustic and homey. For an easier entrance and more luxury, book a room next door at Alta’s Rustler Lodge. It has all the amenities you could want. Even though I stayed at the Alta Lodge, I walked over the Rustler for a massage at the spa—it was just what I needed to make my muscles relax after all that powder skiing.

If you do snowboard, try Snowbird, next to Alta. In fact, for skiers, they offer an Alta/Snowbird combo pass for those who want a lot of variety. Snowbird also has the longest season of all the resorts in the state and highest vertical drop serviced by a lift.

Between Little Cottonwood Canyon and Park City, are the less-crowded resorts of Solitude and Brighton. Just a couple miles apart from each other, both are located in Big Cottonwood Canyon.

Brighton is the “place where Utah learns to ski and snowboard.” This family-friendly resort has three terrain parks and the entire area is accessible by a high speed quad chairlift. Brighton is definitely popular with the locals.

Nearby Solitude lives up to its name; there are no lift lines. I felt as if I had the mountain to myself at times and I would stop and just take in the view, it was tranquil. However, I did have the chance to take a ski lesson with 2005 Instructor of the Year, Ron Cook. Bouncing back-and-forth between Solitude’s two new high speed quad chairlifts, Ron took me all around the mountain. I saw improvement with each run. Ron really knew how to instruct with a gentle voice and clear direction—I didn’t even feel I was in a lesson—it was smooth and natural. Anyone will benefit from a lesson, no matter what your skill level; I encourage you to brush-up on your technique while in Utah.

You will find a couple resorts to the south of Salt Lake City that are more rustic and value-oriented. Sundance Resort is an hour from the airport and offers an intimate setting and low key atmosphere. While Brian Head Resort is best accessed from the Las Vegas International Airport, it is ones of Utah’s friendliest resorts for families on a budget. And it is wonderful for beginner and intermediate skiers and snowboarders.

Scattered to the north of Salt Lake City, you may discover Utah’s other ski resorts. Family-owned and ­operated Beaver Mountain is another family-friendly value resort. Powder Mountain has the most skiable terrain in Utah with equal amounts of area for all skill levels and with budget prices. Wolf Creek Mountain is one of the smaller Utah resorts. However, they have the best prices and night skiing.

Snowbasin, sort of off on its own, is just a half an hour drive from the airport and is my favorite ski resort in Utah. They have everything, including two high speed gondolas for a quick, enclosed 12-minute ride to the top. Attentive and courteous staff is around every corner.

On a visit there, I met and skied with the Australian Aerial Ski Team, The Flying Kangaroos. Steve Rogers, their North American representative, told me that Snowbasin is their “home resort from December through March.” This will be the Kangaroos sixth season at the resort. They ski almost every day for about six hours. Some of the women have only been skiing three years and they out-skied me at every turn. The long runs at Snowbasin were challenging, and fortunately, the Kangaroos led the way. They are fit and fast—gymnasts that have learned to ski. Belinda Price, one of the coaches, told me that it is easier to teach a gymnast to ski than it is to teach a skier to do flips off a ski jump! Makes sense to me—I’ll keep to skiing for now.

To date, three members of the team are on their way to the 2010 Olympic Winter Games. I wish them all good luck. While you’re enjoying the slopes of Snowbasin, you may see the team in training; they dress in matching red ski jackets. More than likely, you’ll see a red flash go by and just tell your friend that you were passed by a Flying Kangaroo in Utah.

You have so many options in Utah with skiing and snowboarding. Shuttles run to many of the resorts from the airport, so you may want to opt-out of renting a car. Utah is a great destination all year long. Look for deals early season and schedule a lesson. You’ll be powdered with pure joy.

If You Go
Gateway Airport: Salt Lake City International (SLC)
Ski Utah, 801-534-1779, www.skiutah.com

Michael Dwyer is a travel columnist, freelance writer, and broadcast journalist living in southeast Michigan. He writes about travel, relationships, and dating. He is founder of the Rochester Writers’ Conference and can be reached at michael@rochesterwriters.com.