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Finding Your Tropical Chi

03/14/11 0 Comments

The remote One Foot Island in the South Pacific is just the place

Shipwrecked!! The mere thought of such an occurrence conjures fear in most minds. Being stranded and alone on a remote island has long been a fear of even adventurous seagoing sailors. Yet, in our modern world, the idea of finding a pristine, untouched place on our cluttered sphere is magnetic to those seeking tropical beauty and solitude. Deep within the Pacific Basin, amongst the backdrop of the Cook Islands, Tapuaetai, a tiny motu islet more commonly known as One Foot Island, exemplifies just such a place.

Although originally inhabited by early Polynesian explorers, the Cook Islands came to light for the rest of the world during the early voyages of Captain William Bligh on the H.M.S Bounty. Soon after his discovery in 1789 of Aitutaki, the atoll of which One Foot is a part, his mutinous crew set him adrift. Once saved and returned to England, Bligh’s accounts of this group of islands noted their extreme splendor amongst a vast turquoise lagoon.

Today, a visit to these coral atoll islands that hang much like a pearl necklace from the main island of Aitutaki is a step back in time to “old Polynesia.”

Perhaps this authentic Polynesian feeling was what influenced producers to select these islands to be the backdrop for the TV series Survivor in 2006. Those that watched this show may remember the location where all the challenges were filmed … this being One Foot Island.

Beauty Above and Below Sea Level

The most common way to experience this near pristine motu is to book an excursion via Bishops Tours, available as an excursion on our Paul Gauguin cruise. During this well-organized tour, one will encounter tropical magnificence on One Foot as well as other adjacent islets. Additionally, eco-trekkers should expect to experience some of the best snorkeling that the South Pacific has to offer.

On Bishop’s first stop, visitors will gaze upon a powder-white sand bank that stretches for well over a half mile to Honeymoon Island. This vast expanse of pristine sand, sculpted by vivid shades of blue, creates a mesmerizing vista.

Close to this massive sand bar, the excursion makes a second stop to offer a look at the underwater beauty found in Aitutaki’s Lagoon. Large coral heads stipple this area with multi-colored corals and tropical fish swimming about.

The most incredible part of this snorkel, however, is looking upon the giant sea clams whose fluorescing mantles dazzle your eyes. Many of these clams are quite old and have grown to several feet in length. To view stands of these Tridacna clams in such a pristine environment is truly a rare site and possible thanks to the good judgment and environmentally conscious Polynesian chiefs that knew certain areas needed to be protected to sustain these as well as other species.

What’s in a Name?

Legend has it that during a tribal festival, two of the tribe members (a father and son) snuck away, choosing to disobey a decree by their chief that forbade harvesting any sea life from an area close to what is now called One Foot Island.

After being spotted in this preserve, a warring party was sent by the chief to capture these dissidents. Attempting to escape, the father rowed to the closest island where he then walked in his son’s footprints until they reached a tree and he had the child climb and hide. The father then ran to the other side of the island where he was ultimately captured.

Later being questioned, he confirmed he was the only one who was on the island thus protecting his son. The single “one-foot” print impressions confirmed his story, and from that day on the tribe referred to the motu as “One Foot” Island.

Exploring One Foot

As our excursion vessel approached One Foot Island for our final stop, it became clear why an early Polynesian chief might have chosen this location to protect—the sheer beauty of this island. Water in rarely seen shades of turquoise encompass its chalky-white sand beach. Palm trees in rich hues of green and yellow jut out from shore then turn abruptly for the cobalt blue sky and wispy clouds above.

Visiting such a place is not so much a “to do” as it is “to be.” Oneness with such a place can take on many forms—whether it be to loll on the beach, laze in a hammock or take a leisurely dip in the lagoon, finding your tropical chi is not only possible here, it’s probable.

During our trip, we bonded with a Polynesian cat that adopted us as much as we temporarily adopted it. Our new momentary friend appeared to be the guardian of one of the beach cottages, which are available for rent to those wishing more than a day of solitude.

The aroma of fresh grilled tuna and chicken beckoned us to lunch, served in a roofed, open-air dining area, where we enjoyed some of this region’s best native fare. Following lunch we considered having our passport stamped at what could be the world’s smallest post office.

Knowing that we had just a couple hours left on the island, it was time to go into exploratory mode and circumnavigate this tiny island before our departure. It’s difficult to capture the beauty of One Foot Island in words. Every portion of this island’s shoreline was distinct and more beautiful than what we had already viewed. Having made our way back around the island, and after a final dip in the lagoon, it was now time to board for our trip back to the main island of Aitutaki.

Snorkeling and Diving Adventures

On our way back, we approached the low rolling hills of the island flanked by banana plantations and coconut groves. Aitutaki is often referred to as the “Bora Bora of the Cook Islands” as it geologically mimics this well-known destination. Wide ranges of accommodations are available here, from the upscale Aitutaki Pacific Resort to the Etu Moana Boutique Beach Villas to the less expensive yet comfortable motels and B&B’s around the island.

Aitutaki’s sister island of Roratonga also offers a wealth of tropical properties as well as very dramatic dive and snorkeling options. Perhaps one of the most spectacular Cook Island shore dives or snorkels is available directly across the street from The Dive Centre at Aroa Beach on the southwest side of the island. Here, nearly every imaginable species of Pacific tropical fish swim amongst the vividly colored corals, all just a short swim from the beach. On a dive just beyond the reef, eagle rays congregate at a cleaning station, which creates an underwater landing strip of sorts.

Topside, getting to this remote destination is best accomplished by flights from Los Angeles to Roratonga, such as on Air New Zealand or U.S. Airways. Various cruise lines also visit these islands such as the Paul Gauguin, which has a variety of itineraries out of Tahiti.

Regardless of how you get here, whether by plane, cruise line or even being washed ashore, it’s not so much about the “do” as it is about the “be,” and most importantly, finding your tropical chi.

If You Go

Cook Islands Department of Tourism (www.cookislands.travel)
Bishops Cruises (www.bishopscruises.com)
Paul Gauguin Cruises (www.pgcruises.com)
Air New Zealand (www.airnewzealand.com)
The Dive Center, Rarotonga (www.thedivecentre-rarotonga.com)
McBirney House (http://tinyurl.com/2d34pcu)—For those who want more than a day on One Foot Island, this two-story house is available for rental.

As an award-winning travel and outdoor photojournalist, Dale Sanders has ventured to more than 100 islands and coastal destinations around the globe. He is the associate editor for SmallShipCruises.com, travel editor for Antique Bottle & Glass Collector, and national travel examiner for Examiner.com. Dale is the current NATJA first-place winner of the travel photojournalism award in sports and recreation. His numerous credits and outlets can be found at www.phototext.biz.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DALE SANDERS