Up Close & Personal

Besides sharks, few creatures conjure up fright and panic like alligators and crocodiles. For the masses that have never encountered these carnivorous dinosaurs, the idea of their bone-crushing bite and embellished tales of eating human snacks perpetuate a great misunderstanding of gracious, living fossils. However, within the far southern reaches of the United States, along the Shark Valley nature trial of Everglades National Park, awaits unexpected tales of docile face-to-face encounters with some of the world’s most feared animals.

A vast expanse of roughly 1.5 million acres spanning the width of Florida, Everglades National Park is the largest subtropical wilderness in the United States and the third largest national park in the continental United States. Rich in wildlife, these mysterious wetlands are a photographer’s dream, brimming with opportunity for personal interaction with wading birds, charismatic alligators, frivolous otters, lounging turtles, and for those lucky enough, the Florida panther, the American crocodile, and West Indian manatee.

Season and serendipity dictate wildlife sightings, but as a general rule migratory birds frequent during winter; and gators are more visible as the dry season ensues. From December to April the Everglades grow increasingly drier. During this time, wildlife congregates closer to watering holes, sometimes culminating in scenes of alligators piled one on top of the other. The wet season from June to October means more mosquitoes, lusher vegetation, and more accessible habitat area for park residents and hence less wildlife viewing.

One of four main access points to the national park, Shark Valley Visitor Center, provides an extraordinary opportunity to bike or walk through 15 miles of the Everglades, immersed in shallow wilderness. It takes little time to realize that the fearless wildlife near Shark Valley have no qualms approaching or ignoring strangers. Shortly after the park’s entrance, the 3 Dimensional Animal Planet special becomes your reality. A double-breasted cormorant flies overhead, an anhinga swallows a fresh catch, schools of Florida gar appear to rise out of the water, a curious blue heron lands alongside. The scenes change constantly. As you continue your journey down the 15-mile trail, you soon spot 1,000-pound, 12-foot intimidating giants on the trail’s edge, just feet away from onlookers, without any fence or protection. While it’s highly unlikely to see one of the 1,500 remaining American crocodiles here, vast numbers of Florida’s 1.5 million alligators line the trail’s perimeter and interior. The initial reaction to nearly stumbling on top of a gator is surely one of shock and wonder, kind of like when you first found out Santa Claus was not real.

As you venture deeper into the wetlands, it becomes clear you are a welcomed guest in the world of the alligator—three oversized beasts bask in the sun, six baby gators venture into the receding water, another two juveniles watch you with their peripheral vision. Suddenly you are surrounded by 10,000 pounds of 200-million-year-old biological heritage with no interest in sampling the taste of human flesh! The scene feels surreal, nurturing a new appreciation for these swampland giants when observing them up close and personal. While this experience merits major bragging rights, boundaries shall not be overstepped. Onlookers must keep a distance from the reptiles and under no circumstance attempt to pet the wildlife. This is nature, not Disney; and alligators are still indeed apex predators!

Since 1948, there have been a total of 463 alligator attacks in Florida (156 of which were provoked!) and 22 fatalities. None of these incidents occurred at Shark Valley, where humans and alligators interact daily in very close proximity. Attacks have risen in recent years as humans encroach on previously virgin wetlands, and ignorant individuals feed and habituate feral alligators (note that this is illegal). Still, you actually have a better chance of winning the lottery than being attacked by an alligator.

With rental bikes plentiful at the Shark Valley Visitor Center, visitors have the alternative of experiencing Shark Valley on retro bicycles, by foot, or taking a tram (you need only remember to bring cash, water, snacks, sunscreen, and environmentally-friendly mosquito repellent). A 65-foot observation tower is situated halfway along the main path, with rare and precious aerial views of the Everglades. The water collection pool near the tower teems with gators, turtles, and birds year-round. True thrill seekers should visit between February and March, when rangers lead exhilarating night trips on the path to observe nocturnal world of the Everglades.

In addition to Shark Valley, Everglades National Park offers three other access points open 365 days a year. The most frequented, the Ernest Coe Visitor Center in Homestead, is an easy day trip from anywhere in South Florida. For those with limited time, the short and easy Anhinga Trail reveals living images from the pages of National Geographic magazine.

While popular airboat rides triumph as the Everglades experience of choice, note that the sawgrass glide rides take place outside the boundaries of the National Park. Numerous outfitters find loopholes in the law by working in Native American territory and feeding the alligators marshmallows so tourists can get the perfect shot. A visit to the national park is far more rewarding and awe-inspiring, fostering a more organic and respectful communication between the Everglades and us. No public transportation exists to or from national park access points, so a rental car is necessary. For those without cars or those keen to complement their fabulous Miami vacation with forgotten Florida, the Mandarin Oriental Miami offers full day trips from the hotel. Mandarin’s trip combines altruism with tourism. A day trip includes a visit to Everglades National Park along with an afternoon of volunteering in the park through tree planting, recycling projects and weeding out exotic plants.

IF YOU GO
For more information, visit the government’s website for the Everglades National Park (www.nps.gov/ever) and the Mandarin Oriental’s website (www.mandarinoriental.com/miami).

Shark Valley Visitor Center is located at 36000 Southwest 8th Street, Miami (305-221-8776).

The Ernest Coe Visitor Center is located at 40001 State Road 9336, Homestead, Florida, (305-242-7700).

Paul Rubio took a break from his life as a Harvard economist to document his world travels. 65 countries and 6,500 stories later, the Cuban-American’s seductive syntax graces bookshelves and newsstands around the world via Fodor’s guidebooks, Out magazine, The Advocate, The Guide Mag, and his award winning book, The Out Traveler South Florida.