A trip to game reserves in Kenya and Tanzania more than fulfills this writer’s lifelong dreams to experience an African safari

It was just a few moments after dawn and my heart was already pounding. We were racing toward the Mara River in Tanzania in an open-air safari vehicle, hoping to witness the magnificent spectacle that I’d waited a lifetime to see.

I dreamed of this safari for decades. As a child, I was captivated by Africa and its extraordinary wildlife migration. At the library, I gobbled up any books I could find on Africa, its animals, and the captivating Masai and Samburu cultures. Now, my husband and I were alone in the Northern Serengeti with no other vehicles in sight, hoping my childhood dreams would materialize before our eyes.

The Crossings Man

Our Sayari Mara Camp guide, Albert Lucas, scanned the banks on the other side of the river and spotted a huge cavalcade of animals stampeding down the hill. “They’re crossing!” he yelled as he hit the gas. In fewer than 10 minutes, we were in front-row seats on the banks of the river watching head-on as herds of wildebeest, zebras and an occasional topi swam and scampered across the muddy waters.

During the next three hours, Albert estimated more than 200,000 animals had crossed the Mara River. Some leaped dramatically into the air before swimming across the water while others were more careful, pausing to strategically plot their path to safety. The air was filled with the sounds of wildebeest bleating, hooves pounding against the hard dirt and the splashing of water. Luckily, it was too early for crocodiles to be out looking for a kill. We’d already seen the remnants of that on a previous outing the day before with Lucas, and I was in no mood to relive the drama. I simply wanted to bask in the heartwarming miracle of childhood dreams come true.

Dubbed “The Crossings Man” because of his uncanny ability to predict these events, Lucas fulfilled my every dream during our days at the Sayari Camp. We witnessed four crossings, watched half a million grazing animals part like the Red Sea as we crossed the plains, observed multiple lions mating and females caring for their tiny cubs, saw lurking crocodiles open their jaws and wrap wildebeest in a fearsome dance of death, and took hundreds of pictures of four of the Big Five animals—lions, leopards, African elephants and Cape Buffalo. The rhinoceros eluded us—on this outing.

A Trip of a Lifetime

Timing and luck were with me on this trip, along with some of the best safari planning and guides available. We experienced everything that I had hoped for on this journey—and a few beyond my wildest imagination. Thanks to our travel planner Kent Redding of Africa Adventure Consultants, with whom we booked this African safari tour, this truly was the vacation of a lifetime.

Our adventure started “Out of Nairobi” at the foot of the Ngong Hills. Our Express Travel Group guides whisked us from our lodging at the Holiday Inn Mayfair to the Daphne Sheldrick Animal Orphanage, part of the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. More than 80 African elephant orphans and several black rhino babies have been nursed back to health here. Tourists can become foster parents, receiving special visitation privileges that are well worth the cost. It was then on to Giraffe Manor to kiss and feed Rothchild giraffes, followed by a moving tour of author Karen Blixen’s home.

The next morning, we were the only passengers on our tiny SafariLink plane leaving behind bustling Nairobi for the serenity and arid hills of Samburu National Park. Smiling Samburu warriors greeted our plane and took us on our first game drive to see herds of elephants, tiny dik-diks and packs of baboons. Tall, stately reticulated giraffes posed for our lenses. We became one with the animals as they graciously allowed us to enter their world.

At Heritage Hotels’ Samburu Intrepids, a family-friendly luxury tented camp, we learned more about the ways of the wildlife and people of this region. Samburu is a smaller game reserve than others, and the animals are more concentrated here. We quickly spotted the Samburu Five (reticulated giraffe, oryx, gerenuk, Grevy’s zebra and Samburu ostrich) and were rewarded with multiple sightings of lions, leopards, cheetahs, elephants and Cape buffalo. Big cats prowled in trees over our heads, mated and hunted for game just a few feet from our open Land Rover.

When a lioness adopted an orphaned baby oryx in 2002, Samburu National Park’s motto became “Where Nature Defies Itself.” It almost appeared as if that welcome was being extended to us, as wildlife often came within a foot or two of our open vehicle. Being surrounded by three inquisitive lionesses caused us to re-examine that thought, however. While our guide was quite confident, we weren’t sure that adoption was quite what they had in mind.

The Magnificent Masai Mara, Kills Included

Our adventure continued in Kenya’s famed Masai Mara National Reserve, one of the best-known and most-visited reserves in Africa. Our tent at Mara Intrepids Camp was situated above the Talek River, where the sounds of bellowing hippos and roaring lions serenaded us each night. The camp is ideally located in the center of the Mara’s primary game-viewing area, providing us with some extraordinary wildlife sightings, including lioness and cheetah kills.

While kills are a common staple of Africa nature shows, seeing one from start to finish is relatively uncommon in the wild. It comes down to timing, great guides and luck—and we had all three. Driving through the Mara late one afternoon, our guide saw a lone lioness surveying a large herd of zebras from afar. His instincts told him to stop and wait as she plotted her next move. Over the next 10 minutes, we watched as the lioness slunk low against the ground, moved behind some brush, and carefully stalked the unsuspecting herd. Then, with an amazing burst of speed, she made her move.

Panic gripped the zebra herd as the lioness exploded out of the underbrush and zeroed in on one of her targets, a large male easily three times her size. She grabbed his hindquarters with her huge paws and dug in her claws. The zebra tried to run, but the weight of the big cat quickly toppled it on its back. Shrieking and squealing, the zebra kicked and tried to right itself, but the lioness sank her claws and fangs deeper, methodically gnawing at one of its legs until it was broken. She then moved on to feast hungrily and the zebra’s intermittent cries eventually stopped.

I thought the kill would be quick, but this one seemed to last a lifetime. The heartrending sound of the zebra’s screams will stay with me forever. The only thing that made it bearable was the knowledge that this lioness was a new mother with three tiny cubs to feed. In a span of minutes, “the circle of life” took on deeper meaning for me as it moved from catchy Disney tune to gritty reality.

The shadow of death quickly gives way to the beauty of life in Africa, as it did the next morning. Lifting off in a hot-air balloon for a sunrise flight over the savannah is one of the most magnificent ways to view wildlife and scenery in this area, followed by a formal breakfast straight Out of Africa.

Completing the Big Five and Wildlife Walks

In Tanzania’s wildlife parks, we had some of our most thrilling experiences. In addition to the animal crossings at the Mara River, we descended into a spectacular site at Ngorongoro Crater, where a huge black rhino meandered out of brush like an armored tank and careened its way toward our safari vehicle—thus completing our Big Five sightings in the wild. After surviving that encounter and the narrow bumpy roads, we decompressed and celebrated with a toast over a luscious dinner at Gibb’s Farm.

Not surprisingly, the best was saved for last. If you’re looking for adventure in Africa, walking safaris are the name of the game—and Tarangire’s Oliver’s Camp is the place. Stripped from the protection of the safari vehicle, walkers experience an exhilarating sense of freedom and connection with wildlife.

Accompanied by an armed guard and our experienced naturalist guide, Alex, we felt safe in exploring the world around us on foot. We were able to get close to large mammals including elephants, giraffes and even two lions—much to our heart-pounding amazement. With 14 years of experience leading walking safaris, Alex knew how to safely allow us to have an intensely private experience and enjoy the unparalleled luxury of being one with nature.

Cultural Exchange

We came to Africa for the wildlife, but the people won our hearts.

At Samburu, colorfully clad women danced and sang as they welcomed us to their village. In a particularly moving gesture, several gave us intricate beaded bracelets and necklaces and enveloped us with hugs. We later donated schoolbooks and helped find a new water pump for their village.

At a Masai village in the Mara, warriors jumped to impossible heights and I learned to jump right along with them. And at Tanzania’s lovely Rivertrees Country Inn, Martina immersed me in Bahati, a project to improve the lives of the country’s women. We came away transformed.

Safari is the Swahili word for journey—a fitting term for a trip to Africa. Be prepared to leave a piece of your heart there. For those who are willing, an Africa safari becomes a voyage of self-discovery and an adventure for both the body and soul.

Nancy Schretter is an award-winning travel writer and editor with more than 15 years of experience in travel journalism and publishing. She is founder and managing editor of the Family Travel Network and founder of Together for Good, a non-profit organization dedicated to promoting giving back as part of the travel experience. She has been a family travel expert guest on The Today Show, CNN, NBC News and numerous other television and radio programs. Her work and insights have been featured in national newspapers, magazines, and a variety of trade publications.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY NANCY SCHRETTER